| From
Mark
Robinson: Details:
- Surf Green and Clear Coat Nitro with Fender Neck
Amber all from Reranch.
- String through body with vintage style, 6-saddle
bridge.
- Decal made from Micro-Mark clear stock.
- Shielded all pickup and control cavities, plus the
pick-guard.
- Duncan hot-stack in neck. Original pickup in
bridge.
- Reversed controls ala Fender Custom Classic.
Overall my experience was very good. There are good
reviews on Harmony-Central that were somewhat helpful in looking out for
trouble areas in advance and I heeded some of these.
I started out by getting the headstock routed, holes drilled in the body
(string-through) including a sink for ferrules. (I had a guy who builds
guitars do this for me for $80.00) He also measured and drilled (new) holes
for a replacement bridge (vintage re-issue with the lip for the ashtray
cover). I filled two that were not needed.
You already know the painting/finishing stuff – that was the next step. Note
that I painted the head stock which is a factor below.
I’d read that the tuning keys aren’t very good on these, although more
recent H-C reviews indicate they’ve improved them. I replaced mine with
Kluson re-issues. One HUGE WORD OF WARNING. If you do this, make sure you
drill the holes out to fit the replacements. I didn’t find this out until
after I’d painted the head stock. The paint chipped when I tried to fit them
in. Cost me weeks of refinishing time to re-paint, make a new decal, etc.
Rookie mistake.
Next, I went the extra step and shielded the cavities (including the back of
the pick-guard) with copper tape.
|
 |
The input jack as designed sticks out too far for my tastes, so I found
another washer to put behind the plate so I could adjust it and make it
flush to the body. The wiring is very easy if you go with the stock
electronics. I replaced the neck pickup and kept the stock bridge one, so I
had a little soldering to do. Also, I reversed my control plate (a la a
Fender Custom Classic) so the volume is far forward, tone in the mid and the
selector switch to the rear. This created a few wiring issues so it went
back to my guitar electronic guy for some wiring (another $40.)
I replaced the pick-guard which meant drilling and
filling a few holes, no big deal.
One of the best things about my Saga (don’t know if this is true of all) is
the neck. I wanted a rosewood fretboard as my two Strats are maple. This
thing is chunky, solid and straight. Feels very fifties-like. It fits very
tightly into the pocket. I did have to drill the holes a little deeper to
get the screws all the way in when attaching it to the body.
I’ve noticed a little gap (less than an 1/8”) and in a crescent shape the
size of your pinky fingernail beside the bridge that’s created by the
routing for the bridge pickup. I’d check that in advance before painting,
too.
The finished product plays great. I’m letting the neck settle down a little
and then I’m having my guitar guy do a complete set-up to get the intonation
right.
With a molded case from Same Day Music I’ve got about $500 in this thing.
Not bad for a one-off model that you won’t see just everyday.
If someone just wanted to buy the kit, spray it with some lacquer from an
auto store and go with it as is, I think you could have a killer guitar for
$150.
Thanks for all the helpful tips on your web site, too.
Mark |
